5 Best Belaying Knots

The 5 best belaying knots for climbing are very sturdy and resist friction. Please be aware that belaying knots are very safe, but should not be the only method of anchoring a climber. Check out the belaying knots below if you're looking to learn more about climbing safety!

  1. The figure eight. The figure eight is the most common belaying knot in the climbing world. The figure eight bight allows you to create a knot in the middle of a rope, allowing you to attach a carabiner to it. You basically make a loop, take the closed end of the rope and wrap it in a full circle around the rope, and pull it through the middle. Pull tight so the knot is not loose.
  2. The double fisherman. The double fisherman knot is a necessary knot for tying two ropes together. This is helpful if a rope breaks, or if the climber wants to rappel.
  3. The clove hitch. This hitch is made my making two opposing loops and putting them together to attach to a carabiner. This knot is easy to undo and allows the climber to hitch to the anchor without actually tying a knot.
  4. The Munter hitch. This belaying knot is the best friction knot for climbing. This is basically done by twisting a coil in the rope and then attaching the carabiner. Then, the loose end is passed through the carabiner as the break line.
  5. The mule knot. The mule knot is complicated to explain without a photo, but it is the most necessary belaying knot to know, as it is used for rescue. It is used after making the Munter hitch and allows for a Z-pulley system.



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