Billiard table parts are fairly elementary. There are two standard constructions, coin-operated and recreation or in-home use. The main difference is obvious, coli-operation in on and perhaps not so obvious is coin-operated billiard tables have ball returns where in-home simply have pockets. This article will look at the billiard table parts for in-home use.
- Cabinets: This is the base for the billiard table. There are two basic types the full wood design and the flat board style that requires the separate purchase of legs. The complete wood kit billiard table cabinet is your best choice. The cabinet is the foundation of the billiard table. Solid wood, oak or cedar for example fitted together with brackets ad wood screw. There are many styles and looks for shop well when deciding on a cabinet.
- Slates: The part of the billiard table that sits atop the cabinet. This becomes the foundation for your playing surface. The slate comes in a solid piece, three pieces and a five piece design. Basically the slate is either one piece or broken into sections. Advice, purchase the five piece slate due to the ease an inexpensive replacement costs. The best slates are produced in poplar or pine since it is a dense and strong wood but still easy to work with.
- Rails: A two piece billiards table part that fits around the cabinet atop the slate. The rail is a strip of wood with a rubber tip that will allow the billiard ball to “bounce” or “bank” when struck. The wood is the foundation that attaches to the cabinet and the rubber tip will snap on to the rail. The best railing id made of pine with a on and quarter in hard rubber profile.
- Pockets: Of course this is the corner and sides that allow you to sink your shot. The best pockets are outlined in leather with thick cotton frills and leather based “pockets” (where the ball calls into and prevents form falling to the ground). Each billiard table accommodates six pockets that are drop in and glued into place.
- Felt: For the last part of the billiard table the felt is the playing surface. Felt isn’t felt and this piece of the billiard table may be for aesthetics as well as use. The best felt is durable grade and at least a quarter inch thick. The need for a tightly produced felt and thickness is to prevent tears and fraying of the felt. The aesthetics part is based on your desire for felt color. Of course the most widely used is green or red but the color palette has increased quite a bit.