How To Build A Hunting Blind
Knowing how to build a hunting blind will allow you to hunt more successfully. Deer and other animals have a great ability to sense movement from hunters; this is why many hunters create a hiding spot. Hunting blinds allow several hunters to relax and move around while being blocked from the sight of any unexpected animals. The key to creating a good blind is to create a stable platform that allows you to blend into your surroundings successfully.
To build a hunting blind, you will need:
- Several two-by-fours
- Several two-by-twelves
- Three and a half inch nails
- One and a half inch nails
- Tape measure
- Hunter green paint
- Black paint
- Brown paint
- Metal angle brackets
- Camouflage fabric
- Half inch of plywood
- Begin by selecting a flat work surface. Gather your materials. Measure and cut two sections of four-foot two-by-fours, nine sections of two-by-fours to four-feet-five inches in length, and two more sections to three-foot-eight-and-a-half inches. Cut sixteen sections of two-by-twelves to four feet in length. Cut four more sections of two-by-twelve to two-feet long. This will create all of the components of the four-by-four feet hunting blind. In three of the four-foot two-by-twelve sections, mark the center and cut out a section that is twelve inches wide and six inches tall. Cut a four-by-four foot section of plywood for the roof.
- Take two of the four foot two-by-fours and two of the three-foot-eight-and-a-half-inch two-by-fours and arrange them in a square. The two sections should be on the left and right hand sides, while the three-foot-eight-and-a-half-inch sections should be placed inside the four foot sections, one on each end. Nail these together so you have a four-by-four foot square base. You will want to place four nails on each corner to form a strong bond.
- Insert one metal angle bracket to each of the inner corners of the base. Nail these into each section to create a stronger base bond. This is very important because the base will be responsible for holding the weight of the entire blind, plus the weight of each hunter inside for any length of time.
- Nail four of the four foot sections of two-by-twelves along the base of the blind. These should line up perfectly to the base as each one is one foot in width and four feet in length.
- Nail two sections of four-feet-five-inch two-by-fours at each corner. These should be nailed directly to the base frame, level with the ground, and remain four feet tall over the base landing. These corner sections should form a triangle around the corner, while leaving a slight slit through the corner area. Attach one of the four feet five inch sections of two-by-fours to the rear of the blind, creating a distance of two feet from the end of each two-by-four.
- Connect the four foot sections of two-by-twelves along the front and sides of the blind. Place the sections of two-by-twelves with the spy hole on the top layer with the spy hole being placed six inches below roof level. Connect the two foot sections of the two-by-twelves to the rear wall, leaving an opening for entrance. Nail a metal angle bracket on the inside to each two-by-twelve corner areas to strengthen the bond between the walls; this will be four metal angle brackets on each corner wall area. Use three and a half inch nails to brace the bracket to the corner piece as well as the wall board.
- Attach the four-by-four foot section of plywood to the top of the frame, creating a nice roof structure. The blind is now complete and can be painted. Begin painting with a base coat of hunter green and sparingly add black and brown to create a camouflage appearance. Nail the fabric to the roof to drape over the opening, creating a cover for the door.
A larger height can be created by adjusting the amount of two-by-twelves you use, as well as the height of the two-by-four wall boards.