Any aspiring horror director will need to know how to make horror movie props. Most novice horror films are stillborn wastes of time that never should've been conceived. Even though the writing of these movies never reaches beyond a "Sleepaway Camp" level of story telling and character development, we can at least help to ensure that the props don't suck so bad. Below is a detailed guide on how to make horror movie props.
Horror movies that are worth watching are almost required to have blood. The recipe in this article was perfected by Hollywood makeup artist Dick Smith. In an article on Time.com the author details the recipe. Anyone who's seen "The Exorcist" or "Taxi Driver" can attest to the quality of this formula. For all the young ladies out there, just dab some of this stuff on the front of your pants and you'll get out of gym class. Items needed are:
- A quart of white corn syrup
- One level teaspoon of Zinc Oxide (laboratory supply store or website)
- Two ounces of red food coloring
- Five teaspoons of yellow food coloring
- Two ounces of Photo-Flo
- Two ounces of water
- To mix, put the Zinc Oxide into a bowl and add a teaspoon of water and paste.
- Pour in the food coloring and stir. Once this is done, transfer to a larger container and add the corn syrup.
- Add the water afterwards, making the consistency thick, but not too gooey.
- Finally, add the Photo-Flo and mix well. It should be noted that the Photo-Flo is poisonous, so anyone stupid enough to eat the blood will die.
Good horror movies are full of dismembered organs. Here's the ingredients needed to make this happen:
- 16 pounds of plaster
- Liquid Latex (skin tone)
- Cardboard box
- Lubricant (petroleum jelly, cooking spray, ect.)
- Duct tape
- Cut a notch into the side of the box, leaving three to four inches at the bottom. This is how deep the plaster will need to be. Make sure the side and bottom corners are completely taped to avoid leaks.
- Pour eight pounds of plaster into the box. Cover the body part being used with lubricant.
- Put desired body part through the notch and into the plaster. After fifteen or twenty minutes you should be able to remove the body part.
- Once the bottom mold is dry, add more lubricant to the body part and to the bottom mold. Place the body part being used back into the mold and pour the rest of the plaster over it. The top mold will, naturally, take the same amount of time to dry as the bottom.
- Once they're dry, put a ring of caulk, or "caulk ring," around the body part indentation of the bottom mold.
- Place the top mold on, um, top of the bottom mold making sure the two line up perfectly. Use the tape and left over box to firmly seal the two molds together.
- Fill the opening in the sealed molds with the gel. Refrigerate until the gel sets. If the molds were well lubricated, it should be easy to pull the gel body part out in one piece.
- Once it's out, paint two or three layers of liquid latex on the gel body part. Finished! We now have a professional looking horror movie prop!
In summary, making horror movie props can be fun and relatively inexpensive. One more thing-use real weapons. Knives can be found just about anywhere. Axes, machetes, hammers and the like can be attained cheaply as well. The problem with fake weapons is that they look a little too fake, which is a wasteful and redundant considering that they would be used on a plastered head or arm. Also remember that this list is a guide. Some of the best horror movie props arise out of boredom or ingenuity, so get creative.
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