How To Tie A Prusik Knot For Climbing
Do you want to learn how to tie a Prusik knot for climbing? Prusik knots are great for climbers and used in different situations, including ascending a rope to rigging a z-pulley to haul up an injured climber. It is a friction knot, also called a slide and grip knot, and is named after Dr. Karl Prusik, former president of the Austrian Mountaineering Club, who developed this knot in 1931.
The first part of tying a Prusik knot is to form a loop with a cord or smaller rope by joining the two ends using a double fisherman's knot. This looped cord is called a Prusik loop. The second part is to take the looped cord and tie it around a larger rope in such a way that completes the Prusik knot. To tie a Prusik knot you will follow three sets of instructions.
Here are instructions for making a double fisherman's knot used to tie the cord into a Prusik loop:
- Take the 2 ends of cord so they are parallel to each other, going opposite directions. Take one end and wrap it around the other piece of cord from front to back.
- The cord should be under or behind itself. Once the end comes around to the front, the wrap has completed a circle.
- Repeat by making a second wrap. This wrap is below the first one.
- Take the working end of the cord and thread it under, or behind, both wraps.
- Tighten by pulling the cord. This completes the first part of the double fisherman's knot.
To complete the knot, the same steps are repeated only in the opposite direction:
- Wrap the end of the cord that hasn’t been knotted yet around the other end from back to front.
- The wrap should be in front or on top of itself. When finished, this has completed a circle.
- Wrap the cord again. This wrap is above the first one.
- Thread the working end of the cord and thread it through both wraps.
- Pull so that both knots are snug against each other.
- Pull to tighten. This completes the double fisherman's knot.
Here are the instructions for tying the looped cord around a larger rope to form a Prusik knot:
- Take a piece of cord tied into a loop using a double fisherman's knot and wrap it around a rope.
- Wrap the cord around the rope at least three times, each time passing the cord inside the previous loop.
- Pull the knot tight, making sure all the wraps are next to each other, not bunched up or crisscrossed.
- The knot can slide up and down a rope better if it is slightly loose.